Sunfish Daggerboard Cord & Trunk Carpet

Can't think of anything else that needs doing. Last night I decided to grab some shock cord from my local shop. I threaded on two sister clips on each end of the cord and tied two figure 8 knots. This will work great as a dagger-board retainer line should I capsize, and will also allow me to yank up the dagger-board for adjustments while sailing, and have it stay in place. I got 9 feet of shock cord and threaded it through the bow handle. Tell a lie, I got approximately 10 feet and had some extra line left over after the knots. I wanted to play with the tension until I was satisfied.

I also grabbed 1 square yard of grey indoor outdoor carpet from Home Depot and cut them into 1"/13" strips. I glued one each to the fore and aft edges of the dagger-board trunk, and also one on each side, port and starboard. I just used some regular Loctice waterproof adhesive that I had lying around. I will see how well it holds up.

Sunfish Mainsheet Boom Blocks, Mast End Cap, Boom End Caps

Over the weekend, I decided to get all of my rigging issues sorted out. My original Sunfish booms came without end caps, and without boom blocks. I found a set of old boom blocks and old boom end caps on the web, but decided it wasn't worth it. My original mast came with a top cap that had a block attached (old-style). The block was attached via an eye-bolt that was through-bolted. I noticed the bolt was loose and when I tried to tighten it, the old bolt broke in half in my hands. I wasn't going to buy 40 year old blocks attached to eye-bolts that might break. So I decided to upgrade. I eventually went with Harken Bullet Blocks (not class legal), because they were readily available at my local shop. Originally the booms had one hole drilled for the through-bolted eye-bolts. I used this original hole and drilled an additional hole at each location. Then I riveted on an eye-strap. I attached the blocks. The other open hole on the other side of the boom, I riveted and filled with 3M 4200. I also replaced the interlocking eye-bolts that hold the booms together. They looked like they were coming apart after years of use. In addition, I replaced the mast base cap which was cracked. I drilled two holes in the mast and attached the base cap via rivets. One thing I forgot to do, is put some 3M 4200 on the end cap. I had to gently mallet the new cap on, and once I realized my mistake, I tried to get the cap off. It wouldn't come off at all. Admitting defeat I drilled a small hole in the center of the cap for drainage.

Sunfish Metal Bailer & Daggerboard Trunk Fix

OK so maybe I am a little OCD about my boat, but after spending countless hours restoring her, I couldn't stand looking at the eyesore that was my Sunfish bailer. It was heavily corroded and blackish in color. It just looked like it didn't fit with this newly compounded and waxed shiny Sunfish. In addition someone in my family gave me a rotary tool, so this was another excuse to try it out. I used a stainless steel wire brush wheel attachment, and polished the bailer on the hull, and inside the cockpit. Do not use a carbon steel wire brush attachment, or the fine metal left on the bailer will rust. I am satisfied with the results, it came out pretty shiny! I am lucky that all of the parts of my bailer are present and seem to be in better than average shape. The original bailer is made of cast aluminum, so I don't really see the need to convert it over to the plastic bailer. The only thing missing was the bailer ball, which I replaced. Take a look!

When I bought the boat, the ad said that it didn't have any leaks. When I peered into the dagger-board trunk, I could see small chips of gel-coat missing. There were only a few, and I thought better safe than sorry. Or better to fix them now, than to have a leak develop later. I got a small thing of marine epoxy at Home Depot for $5 and went to work. I still need to wet sand the areas, but over all the areas are pretty smooth, and shouldn't damage the dagger-board.

Sunfish Hull Sanded & Waxed - New Mast Cap & Mast Cleat

After about a week of wet-sanding (1 hour here, 1 hour there), I was finally finished. Although it took a long time the results were great! I finished by cleaning off the hull, and then using 3M cleaner and wax to protect. Below are before and after pictures.

Another problem I encountered was that my old style mast cap had an eye-bolt and block, in order to hoist the main-sheet. The bolt seemed a little loose and after attempting to tighten the lock-nut, the bolt broke in half in my hands. I tried to find a replacement at the local hardware store but the loads listed on the bolts at the hardware store wouldn't be able to handle the rigors of day to day sailing. So I decided to install the new version of the mast-cap with the fair-lead molded into the cap. I used 3M 4200 sealant, and a rivet gun. I also decided to install a cleat on the mast for the main-sheet. See photos.

Luke - You don't understand the power of the wetsand!

I got bored and decided to fiddle with the boat again. I am unsure what the previous owner spilled on the hull but it sure stained pretty good. I tried some suggestions from people, and was unable to remove it with bleach, or CLR. I had some fine grit paper, so I decided to wet-sand. With a large amount of elbow grease and 600 paper, the stains came off. Below is a photo. I am half way done.