Monday, 19 September 2011
Project Finished!
Last weekend I spent my time finishing off putting the trailer together. Sunday I spent wiring, so that the break and turn signals worked. It was my first time wiring a trailer, and it was easier than I thought. I used a wire fish, and zip ties to make sure the wiring was out of harm's way, and everything was nice and neat. I also modified the bunks used to support the boat. I added an extra layer of foam, and an extra layer of carpeting that I had lying around. I rigged the boat to ensure everything was working. Here are some photos. All in all, a great experience! Next weekend I will get the boat out. See you on the water! If I have any issues, experiences, or repairs, I will still post them here.
Friday, 2 September 2011
Dude Where's My Trailer?
I haven't posted in a while. I have been researching my options about finding a trailer to purchase online. Living in Canada, I was frustrated with the options. In the U.S. Harbor Freight has a perfect trailer for the Sunfish with free shipping for $325.00. The cheapest option for Canadians is to get s jet-ski trailer from Canadian Tire for $999.00. Quite a difference, and one I wasn't willing to pay.
After much searching I finally found a trailer in BC for $375 from an inflatable boat dealer. Below is a picture of the trailer once assembled. I haven't gotten this far yet, as I just received my trailer kit last week. I have the basic frame built, and will post updated pictures.
I also have to get the trailer registered, then install a plate once finished.
After much searching I finally found a trailer in BC for $375 from an inflatable boat dealer. Below is a picture of the trailer once assembled. I haven't gotten this far yet, as I just received my trailer kit last week. I have the basic frame built, and will post updated pictures.
I also have to get the trailer registered, then install a plate once finished.
Thursday, 28 July 2011
Sunfish Daggerboard Cord & Trunk Carpet
Can't think of anything else that needs doing. Last night I decided to grab some shock cord from my local shop. I threaded on two sister clips on each end of the cord and tied two figure 8 knots. This will work great as a dagger-board retainer line should I capsize, and will also allow me to yank up the dagger-board for adjustments while sailing, and have it stay in place. I got 9 feet of shock cord and threaded it through the bow handle. Tell a lie, I got approximately 10 feet and had some extra line left over after the knots. I wanted to play with the tension until I was satisfied.
I also grabbed 1 square yard of grey indoor outdoor carpet from Home Depot and cut them into 1"/13" strips. I glued one each to the fore and aft edges of the dagger-board trunk, and also one on each side, port and starboard. I just used some regular Loctice waterproof adhesive that I had lying around. I will see how well it holds up.
I also grabbed 1 square yard of grey indoor outdoor carpet from Home Depot and cut them into 1"/13" strips. I glued one each to the fore and aft edges of the dagger-board trunk, and also one on each side, port and starboard. I just used some regular Loctice waterproof adhesive that I had lying around. I will see how well it holds up.
Wednesday, 27 July 2011
Sunfish Mainsheet Boom Blocks, Mast End Cap, Boom End Caps
Over the weekend, I decided to get all of my rigging issues sorted out. My original Sunfish booms came without end caps, and without boom blocks. I found a set of old boom blocks and old boom end caps on the web, but decided it wasn't worth it. My original mast came with a top cap that had a block attached (old-style). The block was attached via an eye-bolt that was through-bolted. I noticed the bolt was loose and when I tried to tighten it, the old bolt broke in half in my hands. I wasn't going to buy 40 year old blocks attached to eye-bolts that might break. So I decided to upgrade. I eventually went with Harken Bullet Blocks (not class legal), because they were readily available at my local shop. Originally the booms had one hole drilled for the through-bolted eye-bolts. I used this original hole and drilled an additional hole at each location. Then I riveted on an eye-strap. I attached the blocks. The other open hole on the other side of the boom, I riveted and filled with 3M 4200. I also replaced the interlocking eye-bolts that hold the booms together. They looked like they were coming apart after years of use. In addition, I replaced the mast base cap which was cracked. I drilled two holes in the mast and attached the base cap via rivets. One thing I forgot to do, is put some 3M 4200 on the end cap. I had to gently mallet the new cap on, and once I realized my mistake, I tried to get the cap off. It wouldn't come off at all. Admitting defeat I drilled a small hole in the center of the cap for drainage.
Friday, 22 July 2011
Sunfish Metal Bailer & Daggerboard Trunk Fix
OK so maybe I am a little OCD about my boat, but after spending countless hours restoring her, I couldn't stand looking at the eyesore that was my Sunfish bailer. It was heavily corroded and blackish in color. It just looked like it didn't fit with this newly compounded and waxed shiny Sunfish. In addition someone in my family gave me a rotary tool, so this was another excuse to try it out. I used a stainless steel wire brush wheel attachment, and polished the bailer on the hull, and inside the cockpit. Do not use a carbon steel wire brush attachment, or the fine metal left on the bailer will rust. I am satisfied with the results, it came out pretty shiny! I am lucky that all of the parts of my bailer are present and seem to be in better than average shape. The original bailer is made of cast aluminum, so I don't really see the need to convert it over to the plastic bailer. The only thing missing was the bailer ball, which I replaced. Take a look!
When I bought the boat, the ad said that it didn't have any leaks. When I peered into the dagger-board trunk, I could see small chips of gel-coat missing. There were only a few, and I thought better safe than sorry. Or better to fix them now, than to have a leak develop later. I got a small thing of marine epoxy at Home Depot for $5 and went to work. I still need to wet sand the areas, but over all the areas are pretty smooth, and shouldn't damage the dagger-board.
When I bought the boat, the ad said that it didn't have any leaks. When I peered into the dagger-board trunk, I could see small chips of gel-coat missing. There were only a few, and I thought better safe than sorry. Or better to fix them now, than to have a leak develop later. I got a small thing of marine epoxy at Home Depot for $5 and went to work. I still need to wet sand the areas, but over all the areas are pretty smooth, and shouldn't damage the dagger-board.
Monday, 11 July 2011
Sunfish Hull Sanded & Waxed - New Mast Cap & Mast Cleat
After about a week of wet-sanding (1 hour here, 1 hour there), I was finally finished. Although it took a long time the results were great! I finished by cleaning off the hull, and then using 3M cleaner and wax to protect. Below are before and after pictures.
Another problem I encountered was that my old style mast cap had an eye-bolt and block, in order to hoist the main-sheet. The bolt seemed a little loose and after attempting to tighten the lock-nut, the bolt broke in half in my hands. I tried to find a replacement at the local hardware store but the loads listed on the bolts at the hardware store wouldn't be able to handle the rigors of day to day sailing. So I decided to install the new version of the mast-cap with the fair-lead molded into the cap. I used 3M 4200 sealant, and a rivet gun. I also decided to install a cleat on the mast for the main-sheet. See photos.
Another problem I encountered was that my old style mast cap had an eye-bolt and block, in order to hoist the main-sheet. The bolt seemed a little loose and after attempting to tighten the lock-nut, the bolt broke in half in my hands. I tried to find a replacement at the local hardware store but the loads listed on the bolts at the hardware store wouldn't be able to handle the rigors of day to day sailing. So I decided to install the new version of the mast-cap with the fair-lead molded into the cap. I used 3M 4200 sealant, and a rivet gun. I also decided to install a cleat on the mast for the main-sheet. See photos.
Tuesday, 5 July 2011
Luke - You don't understand the power of the wetsand!
I got bored and decided to fiddle with the boat again. I am unsure what the previous owner spilled on the hull but it sure stained pretty good. I tried some suggestions from people, and was unable to remove it with bleach, or CLR. I had some fine grit paper, so I decided to wet-sand. With a large amount of elbow grease and 600 paper, the stains came off. Below is a photo. I am half way done.
Tuesday, 28 June 2011
Sunfish Dagger-Board & Rudder Refinish Job
This weekend I refinished my Sunfish Dagger-Board and Rudder. They had a pretty decent existing finish, and to tell you the truth, I was too lazy to strip them all the way down to bare wood. I didn’t want to end up putting 8-10 coats of varnish on the boards. I sanded them with my palm sander. First with 120, then with 80 (ran out of 120). Then I applied some wood putty, let dry, and then sanded again with 220. Then I wiped them down with paint thinner and a tack cloth. Here are pictures of the boards with 2 coats of varnish. I plan to put a 3rd coat on tonight.
Monday, 20 June 2011
Sunfish Gel Coat Patch - Part 3
Well here is my boat all cleaned up and ready for the water! I put another coat of gel coat over the repair area with foam brushes for the 3rd time. The finish came out smooth and shinny. I then wet-sanded with some fine grit paper, and decided enough was enough. The hull is water tight and "good enough". I compounded and waxed (lots of dirt came up off the gel coat), and installed my ratchet block. I also tied a rope bridle using some Marlow line and a few bowlines. Perhaps in the winter I will install a new bridle. I also reinstalled the painted coaming, and re-caulked it last night.
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